Insert a switch into a hot swap socket and test that a keycode is pressed. (For custom keymaps, it's recommended to build the full environment described above). Be gentle with micro USB ports on your microcontrollers. The Lily58 is a perfect choice for people who want to be on a split keyboard but still want to have a fairly standard amount of keys. Keep in mind that this hobby is not cheap . They are easy to break. Add more. Even if you dont plan to use OLED Screen, i always recommend to bridge them anyway, since there is no harm having them in any case bridged. Please be careful when inserting the switches into the PCB. This is the strong root of the passion Ive cultivated for mechanical keyboards, as writing on them is not comparable to anything else. In mainstream switches the quality of this lube is not The following is needed to build the keyboard. They are easy to break. All the process could be separated into 3 sections: 1) soldering electronic parts 2) Lubing the switches 3) putting all together. Lily58 Pro Build Guide; How to add Lily58 RGB underglow backlighting; How to add Rotary Encoders to Lily58 Pro Guide; Build photos are for demonstration purpose only. Follow. Its quite simple but scary the first time you do it. But shows the same layout and net labels on the bottom. Ive been using some keeb or another for more than 8 years, and I continuously This is a non-exhaustive guide to the Lily58 Pro's technical aspects. On each PCB half 2x 12mm length. Place the led in position, heat one of the pads on the board for several seconds before moving the iron to touch the pin on the led , then add solder. With a bit more solder than usual on the tip solder down the other side to the pad on PCB. This guide suits both version V1 and V2 of the standard (non-RGB) Sofle Keyboard. It's easy for the components to fly out when peeling back the tape, so open it slowly and carefully. This is done on the top side, all 4 solder bridges must be completed. The communication between both halves is done via TRRS interface, which is an audio-like audio cable but with 4 channels instead of 2, connected through JACK ports installed on each half. Stop using OLED completely and turn it off as described above. Now it is already possible to connect the ProMicro and OLED display to the board, flash the firmware and check if all keys work using a piece of wire or tweezers. Install the oled so it sits over the pro micro, Add rotary encoders last, they are big, and make soldering harder. Always disconnect the USB cable first. The microcontroller sits on the opposite side of the PCB face to the one that will have diodes and sockets soldered on, so make sure to orientate and slot the controller through the right holes on the correct side. Third, out there there are prebuilt keyboards or parts to build your own. Insert headers into holes. Build as indicated by the orientation shown . A simple but comprehensive guide around the basic equipment and procedure to use for soldering keyboards. For kits purchased at YushaKobo, a spring pin header is included, so use that. I recommend doing one LED and testing it before continuing. Soldering diodes is relatively straightforward. There are several ways how to mount Pro Micros to the board. If the orientation is incorrect, the key will not respond. The process was long perhaps if you like DIY projects and love doing hacky things this will reward you. There are several ready-made consumer options out there like the ZSA Moonlander and Dygma Raise but both are relatively pricey for a keyboard, selling for over $350. Be gentle with the USB on your microcontroller. I've estimated it's battery life somewhere between 1-2 months. And, as I type this post out with the new keyboard, that was some solid advice! You may need to scrape off the solder mask on the via depending on which manufacturer you used. Make sure halves are not connected together with TRRS cable. Available at: https://keyhive.xyz/shop/lily58. By default your left half is the master and the right is the slave, but you can change that in QMK later if you desire to have the USB cable connected to the right half. Load the downloaded JSON file into the QMK Toolbox and write it to the boards. It is recommended to flash ProMicro's prior to soldering. To summarize it, you have an electronic place that the rest of the components attach to. The ProMicro board may not be soldered and attached firmly. Use a piece of tape to fix them and apply solder from the bottom side. You would need to add support to the firmware on your own. . Those are fixed in version 3.1. However, because it shares the exact same process as the Kyria, you can follow the build steps of the Kyria Build Guide. And corresponding sockets (if used) on the front side of the board. The default layout for the SofleRGB is in the qmk repo, and demonstrates some LED functions. The labels for JP1 and JP2 were accidentally swapped. Double combo . Make sure you know which side you are working on, and dont make two left hand sides by mistake. You signed in with another tab or window. Version 1: the Pro Micro board should be mounted bottom-up. Connect both halves together with TRRS cable. Especially makes sense to socket your OLED Screens if you socketed your controller as before hot swapping the controller you need to hotswap the OLED Screen.If you dont plan to hotswap the OLED screen, nor the controller, then solder it directly to the PCB. Helix build guide. Are you sure you want to create this branch? Refer to Soldering the controller if you need further guidance. Lily58 KB Build Guide. Moving the iron back and forth from the pin can help to flow the solder under the LED. If the part of the string stops working, resolder the last working one, and the first to fail, then if needed replace them. We suggest to revisit the main build guide for general process and tips about technique. Thanks to jmo808 for finding it, and apologies once again. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by Keyhive. This commit does not belong to any branch on this repository, and may belong to a fork outside of the repository. Keep in mind height of your Pro Micro which may be different based on if/which sockets you have used for Pro Micro. And if you find any problem there are incredible communities to look for information like Reddit (r/MechanicalKeyboards, r/ErgoMechKeyboards) and geekhack.org forums. throughhole diodes are not recommended due to a footprint error, Choc: 4 mm, MX: 7 mm. Dismiss, Lily58 Low Profile Case Acrylic/Aluminum/FR4, Choc PBT/PC Keycaps for Low Profile Choc Switch, Kailh Choc Low Profile 1U Blank Keycaps (ABS), Gateron Yellow Milky Top Switches 5 Pin (KS-3X47), Gateron Milky Yellow Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Gateron Milky Red Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. Comes with FR4 (PCB material) plate case, hardware, and transparent acrylic OLED covers. In the case of badly attached diode: 2 x 25 Pack Mill-Max Machined Pins Build Instructions Lily58 Pro Build Guide This keyboard is designed originally by Naoki Katahira and modified to create the Pro RE by Ergohaven and information can be found here. On the PCB tin one diode pad first. It may short out. The traditional LED header is available, and can be used alone, or theoretically fed back in to one of the other headers if so desired. Given the context Ive presented in the previous section, I chose some parts that fit the most So taking the default keymap as my starting point, I started to tweak things almost immediately to fit my typing style and allow me to ease into a layout that isn't too far from a standard QWERTY keyboard. Connect one half to USB, flash the firmware (always follow the actuall instructions in the QMK documentation! switch between them as I prefer each day. This is the nature of the product. It can be found on QMK repo. Please set Lily 58 as a US keyboard in the OS keyboard settings. over the years Ive learned to shift from keyboard+mouse interaction to almost After being baited by several beautiful builds online, I really had no choice but to dive into the world of mechanical keyboards with zero electronics experience under my belt. Lily58 Pro Custom Mechanical Keyboard with nice!nanos Build Stream by Nicell. The Lily58 KB is a split keyboard with 58 keys, modified by splitkb.com. I stuck very close to the Lily58 build guide I linked above. Click here for the Corne Cherry v2 build guide. Go to file. They are necessary for OLED support and if you dont socket you Pro Micro you will not be able to do it later. The Iris does have USB-C, though. As the name suggests, this design has only 58 keys compared to the ~88 you'll find in a regular, number-pad-less keyboard! But hey! I Have Waited A LONG TIME for this keyboard!!! Solder the 29x Kailh Hotswap Sockets on the bottom side of the PCB, matching the contour of your respective MX or Choc socket. Please, dont report problems with the design by Keyhive and or firmware to the official Sofle Keyboard repository. Intro Lily58 Pro Parts List Warnings 1 Flash the Pro Micro Controller with QMK firmware 2 SOLDER THE DIODES 3 SOLDER HOTSWAP SWITCH SOCKETS 4 BRIDGE THE FOUR JUMPERS 5 CONTROLLER'S HOTSWAP SOCKETS 6 SOLDER THE CONTROLLER 7 PCB TEST Additional information. When Detecting USB port, reset your controller now is displayed, press the reset button on the keyboard to start writing. The per key lighting is painful and slow. On the front side of the board, apply enough solder to bridge the four jumper terminals in the ProMicro section. Make sure the OLED is enabled in rules.mk file in QMK as suggested in step 4. Mark the surface with masking tape to make it easy to keep track of the back and front of each board. Test the PCB by checking if it registers keypresses. Use as low a temperature as you can manage, place the board flat on a table, and drop an led in. The wiki has information about keymaps, lighting, and encoder code. Completed half of the keyboard waiting for keycaps. ** Indicator + drop lighting ** Moving into full time work five years ago, I quickly realized the discomfort of using traditional keyboards and found the work-provided Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Keyboard did a great job to relieve me of that. When Detecting USB port, reset your controller now is displayed, press the reset button on the keyboard to start writing. I was not able to get 7mm, but 6mm worked well for me with MX switches. Before I dig into the how, I figured I should share a bit about the why I went ahead and put together my own keyboard. Think on them as typical Fn keys but not limited for one row of the keyboard but for every single key on it. Feel free to get creative and experiment with keymaps that match your preferences; consider changing to the JIS layout or adding a key to switch between English and Kana, for example. Refer to Soldering Kailh hot swap sockets if you need further guidance. And to finish with the soldering part you must solder the JACK sockets and the RESET buttons to the PCB. Mount with the wider side (labeled "" here) outwards. Featuring Microcontroller Hotswap Sockets, USB-C Pro Micro, Kailh Switch Hotswap Sockets, Acrylic Plates,. Oh, and as a side note, maybe starting off with blank keycaps was not the brightest of ideas, but hey, doesn't it look cool?! Insert the controller into the PCB (if it is hotswap) and the OLED screen into their respective sockets. I didn't want to spend that much money only to then find myself not being able to adjust to the keyboard and the typing experience. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. Lily58 Pro was created by @kata0510. Soldering Crash Course: Basic Techniques, Tips and Advice! Attach the parts and fix them temporarily with masking tape. A couple of additional callouts, though: There are several community contributed keymaps within the Lily58/keymaps folder in the QMK repo, but I found that there really isn't any one opinionated set of keymaps that folks typically stick to. Great intro into soldering in general. This section assumes that you're familiar with keymaps and the use of the QMK tool. 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