2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. To safely enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these benchmark times while maintaining reserves of strength. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. Mt. Photo from Joe. Photo Daniel Bynum. July 15, 2019 Mount Shuksan / Fisher Chimneys Route Trail from Lake Ann TH to Lake Ann is snow free except a small snowpatch just before the lake. Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). Also recommended for mid-summer climbs. Solid holds all over the chimneys make for fun scrambling. Close At the top, the transition to snow was simple, the moat was not an issue. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 45 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. Guides must be licensed by the park in order to operate legallyplease use the current list of guide services only. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength in the mountains. Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. This is a strenuous route that requires climbing technical terrain carrying an overnight pack. Mountaineering is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies. Permit Areas; Google Calendar; Publications; Climb Routes; Navigation Resources; About Us Membership Icon of an X inside a circle. Joe finally soaking up some sun once we got above the cloud layer. The anchors at the top of the Chimneys are best used only when there . Day 2. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. ), wearing mountain boots no less. Back in May of this year (2022) I had offered to start up a 'climbing club' for my coworkers, to offer people a chance to get into the sport with minimal cost and also to continue maintain my own climbing instructional skills. Shuksan is the center piece. We take privacy seriously. Climb rock, ice, steep snow, and cross a massive glacier on this four-day climb of one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. Joe and rob looking a little tiredconsidering that Rob had never climbed even a single pitch of anything before today, Joe had never been on a glacier before, and I had was leading my first ever glacier-rock combination alpine route this was a huge success! The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. so I decided to grab the permit and make Fisher . You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. We generally arrive back at our cars by early afternoon and conclude our adventure in Sedro-Woolley. We highly recommend that all participants consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after making a deposit. Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. COPYRIGHT 2014-2022 THE MOUNTAIN BUREAU. You will need to obtain a NW Forest Pass or equivalent parking permit to leave your car at the trailhead lot. Shuksan, Mt. However, Spontaneity Arete was also not normally a persons first ever alpine rock climb and Joe had kept it together and followed me up that without issue. Shuksan taken from the Summit of neighborin 1. Forbidden is a significant step up from Shuksan for a lot of reasons. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through . This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound. Certainly, there are loose pieces here and there, but most of the true class 4 sections had fantastic holds and in-between there were minimal patches of unstable dirt/kitty litter/rubble. Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Joe heading up to the base of Winnie's Slide, Practicing running belays using pickets on Winnie's Slide, The Upper Curtis glacier comes into view nearing the higher bivy site. One of the other group members (Rob) was available for this weekend, making it a party of 3. The combination of the other party and eventually our own pace resulted in us being at the summit around 11am; I hadnt imagined being so close to our turnaround time. 1. The Fisher Chimneys route on the mountain's northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing. Climbing and wilderness rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. I think that the standard pitched climbing approach gave Joe and Rob a chance to relax at the belays though, which helped keep our pace consistent even if it was a little slow. In addition to professional instruction in climbing skills, most importantly, you will learn skills that will keep you safe in the mountains. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. Shuksan, which is generally regarded as the Sulphide Glacier route. We serve both local and out-of-town climbers in our Northwest programs, and many of our guests prefer to use their own vehicles. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. This was his first time climbing in mountain boots as well. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Learn to appreciate and respect this signature ritual of Cascades climbs. After some snacks and refilling our water, we set off for the descent. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp Sedro Woolley, WA 98284, Office Hours We moved quickly down the Sulphide without crampons as the snow was very soft by now. Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge- 08.15-17, 2020 (summer glacier and rock climb) . Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington From high camp, we ascend a snow slope and short ice pitch to the top of Winnies Slide. Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. We left Seattle about 5:30. am, to ensure that were the first people at the ranger station for Price XC. Day 2 . The Northwest Rib is nearly unknown, and rarely climbed. One day push in about 13 hours.Check http://www.mountainrefugees.com for . This is our happy place. Mt. Rated class 4, you will be in near-vertical scrambling circumstances. Fisher Chimneys T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. Climbing Time: 4 hours. They can be purchased in advance or the day of the gear check. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. Cross the slope, losing no more than 100 ft, and pick up the clear trail as it crosses heather slopes. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. Use a backpacking stove for cooking. Traverse for about 70 ft, then turn left up a side gully 100 ft to where the route tops out on the ridge. Care for the trees (and flowers and meadows) This low ratio program (2:1 max) is tailored to the goals, objectives, and experience level of participants, including ascents of both Mt. It had softened significantly, and we had been moving about 10 hours at this point, so I didnt think Joe and Rob wanted to solo downclimb at this point. Tail end of the milky way over Mt. Both Joe and Rob looked at the first section of class 4 and seemed like they wanted to ask if we were going to rope up, so I quickly started scrambling to keep the momentum going and show that it wasnt as intimidating as it looked. The Fisher Chimneys is the classic all-around alpine climb in the North Cascades. I don't think many people did Fisher Chimneys and SE Ridge as their first ever alpine climb, let alone first time literally climbing anything at all in Rob's case. Trails Hiked. Then I pulled the rope for them, packed up the picket anchor and downclimbed Hells Highway while they reconfigured the rope for glacier travel down below. We lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shiftingmountainconditions and weather. It was Robs first time ever rappelling on a real mountain. Heading up the final slope to the start of the chimneys. My goal for the summer of 2022 was to reinvigorate my goal of leading alpine climbs; the last time I had led anything was back in 2016-2017; and at that time, I had led a few multi-pitch rock climbs to 5.7 but nothing truly alpine. Know and follow these dos and donts for dealing with human waste. If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the Fisher Chimneys: Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing August 18 August 20, 2023 3 spots left, Mount Shuksan, the Crown Jewel of the North Cascades, is one of the most photographed mountains in the Cascade Range. The NWAG office does not coordinate ridesharing or carpooling and we are unable to share customer or guide contact information due to privacy concerns. Regardless, we just barely made it to the bottom of the very last scramble as evening twilight faded to true nighttime. updates, images, or resources. We reached the bottom of the final class 4 section around 7:30pm, a solid 16 hours since we set off that morning. We will email you detailed PreClimb information including a gear list and full departure details upon receiving your registration. Find a clear trail through the chimneys, approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 scrambling. Shuksan, 9,127', via the Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge combines moderate rock climbing (up to 5.2), short steep snow and ice sections and spectacular glaciers on one of the most picturesque mountains in the world. This is an advanced climb that showcases the majesty of the North Cascades. Rising to a height of 9,131 feet, Mt. If you are in rocky or mineral soil without other good options, bury your waste in a shallow hole. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys . Here are some important reminders to help protect the places and routes where you love to climb. You should be able to hike/climb for 1 to 2 hours at a time, punctuated by 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours. As the climbing daylengthens,we become fatigued and dehydrated. As a climber, you will be in a land of fragile vegetationtreat it with great care! Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Off Trail but can't complain about the dramatic view hiking over the Lower Curtis glacier. . Not a bad considering it was Joe's first ever climbing experience of any kind! When you must cross a vegetated area, spread out so that all your footsteps dont crush the same plant. After a short time, we began the descent. For more information on food storage requirements see. I was certainly hoping that the supposed running water at the bivy sites would be present and plentiful. Take a walk before dinner and find a scenic site far from your camp area to cook and wash up. Elevation Gain: 7600 ft. . All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid. Day 2 Summit Day Vertical Gain Hiking: 3,500 feet Or, walk-up permits can be obtained for free from any park ranger station in-person just before your climb, if sites are available, on a last-minute basis. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys Attempt. Do ask an experienced ranger how many piles of poop he or she has seen while on patrol, and you will realize that this problem is bigger than you want to think. Variations are possible, and even likely, in the chimneys. Mt. We ask that you consult your travel insurance carrier directly with questions. I can see why most experienced parties would simul or solo the ridge, as the crux 5.3-5.4-ish moves werent always protectable anyways. Camped at Ann lake. 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